Sunday, October 16, 2011

Day trip to Leipzig and Wöllnitz

Any early start for a Day of Sour German Beer.

We took an 8am train to be in Leipzig at 11, just in time for lunch at the Bayerischer Bahnhof Gosebrauerei

Bayerischer Bahnhoff Brewery, Leipzig

Bayerischer Bahnhof Gosebier

Like in Berlin, they will often flavor the beer with something sweet. We tried one each of a local Caraway Schnapps, Woodruff syrup and Raspberry syrup.  They added way too much for our tastes -- the beers were turned into soda pop but that probably is the intention.

Gasebier Mit Schuss: Caraway, Woodruff and Raspberry
We ordered a cab and went over to Ohne Bedenken, an old time Gose pub.  If I lived in Leipzig it would probably be my local -- it just has a comfy feel to it (plus two kinds of Gosebier)

Ohne Bendenken, Leipzig

They serve the Bayerischer Bahnoff Gose here, in addition to the Ritterguts Gose. The latter is my favorite, being more sour and complex. If you only have time to visit one place in Leipzig, Ohne Bedenken is the place to go.

Ritterguts Gosebier
Then it was back to the train station to catch our train back to Bamberg. They are doing some works on the tracks so the ICE didn't come to Leipzig -- we had to take a train to Naumberg where we caught the ICE to Jena. We hopped off the train, called a taxi and went to the nearby village of Wöllnitz were a small brewery as recreated a extinct style of sour wheat beer known as Lichtenhainer.  It is of normal strength (4.5% ABV) and very nicely sour. Very much worth a visit if you are anywhere near Jena.

Wöllnitzer Weissbier at the Talschränke, Wöllnitz near Jena
We ordered a taxi and it was a bit late in coming (this place really is in the middle or nowhere) and there was a question if we'd make the train. We did, with about 7 minutes to spare.

It was a long day, with more time spent on the train and in taxis than drinking beer, but it was worthwhile to taste three beers on normally doesn't run across.

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